DIY Brass Tiered Side Table Project

As I was out and about over the weekend I saw that one of my eager neighbours put out some items for collection at their curb.  I couldn't help but take notice of this hideous brass tiered side table that was sitting there alone at the curb in the rain - kinda reminded me of that IKEA commercial some years back.  I hemmed and hawed over whether I should claim this sad looking side table on the side-of-the-road, so I did.  What drew me to this curb-side find were the lines.  I figured that with some TLC this piece could have a new lease on life, here is what I did:


What I Used
220 grit Sandpaper
White flat finish Spray Paint - 2 cans (this baby needed more than 2 coats!)
Dry Cloth
Fabric Swatch
Clear drying glue
2 Baskets
And lots of elbow grease


Here is a before shot of the side table:

The brass shine finish needed to be sanded off before the paint would adhere, this is where the 220 grit sandpaper came in handy.  You don't want to scratch the brass because the gouges will show up once the paint dries so be sure not to go any lower than 220 grit.  After some elbow grease I wiped down the table with a dry cloth - a wet cloth will leave moisture on the brass and could cause rust to form, so be sure to use a dry cloth to wipe off the dust.


I could have used a primer coat of spray paint and you could do this in lieu of three coats of the white flat finish which will cut down on the time you spend, but I decided to make my life difficult and sprayed until my heart was content.  And after two full coats and one for touch-ups I was happy with the outcome.


The side table came with a glass top and I wanted to add a bit of something to the underside of the glass for a touch of intrigue.  The fabric swatch I had was cut to size, pressed and glued to the underside of the glass - good side facing up through the glass. Small incisions were made to allow the suction-cups (that came with the side table) to adhere to the glass.  This is so that the glass doesn't slip off when being used or transported. 


Here are a couple of after shots of the side table:

I really like how the black pops off of the white in re-finished side table, baskets and fabric.  This side-of-the-road cast-off now has a new lease on life with a fresh coat of paint, some TLC and accessories, and is now a proud member of my home happily placed in my guest room as a bedside table.

Arranging Artwork on your Walls

The task of hanging artwork on the walls can be a challenging one for many.  Some make the mistake of hanging the art too high, others too low; some choose to hang a small print on a large wall or a print that isn't proportionate to the furnishings.  Well not to worry, I have some tips and tricks to help with the look and placement of art on your walls.


How High Do I Go?
Most people make the mistake of hanging artwork too high on the wall.  I have personally seen the smallest of art pieces hung as close to the ceiling as possible, this is a big mistake in many ways: 1. the size of the art piece was way too small for the large expanse of wall and 2. it was hung way too high.  If you have to crane your neck to see the artwork then you've gone too far.  


Typically the center of the artwork should be hung no higher than eye level.  If you are hanging a group of art pieces, the center of the grouping should also be no higher than eye level.  If you are tall (like me) then lower the artwork slightly to accommodate the average sized person, like I mentioned before, you don't want people to crane their necks to see the artwork, but don't go too low otherwise you won't be able to enjoy the piece yourself.  Keep in mind that this is just a general guideline for hanging art pieces and that it doesn't apply to all situations, depending on the space and size of the artwork/grouping.


Proportions are Important
There are a number of factors when it comes to selecting artwork or photography for the walls such as:

• Size of the artwork/photograph/print
• Size of the wall
• Size of the furnishings in the space

You want to select a piece that won't under-perform and you don't want one that is going to over-power, trust me I know you're thinking at this point that this is impossible, but I promise you that there is a happy medium.  Let's start with the size of the wall, you want to consider what the wall/room will be used for.  Is it a combination family/dining room?  Open concept space? or a small nook?  It is important to first identify the room and the role the wall plays in the space so that you can identify the appropriate size of artwork or number of prints to select.  You want to be sure to relate the size of the artwork to the size of the space.  Use smaller prints in smaller spaces i.e. narrow walls or nooks, and larger prints for big wall spaces.

The next step is to determine the relation of the size of print to the furniture pieces in the room.  If you are going to be placing a print over the sofa then you want to select one that is in good proportion to the size of the sofa.  You don't want to hang a small print on the wall behind your sofa, nor do you want one that overhangs.  A general tip is to hang a print which is about 75% of the width of your furniture.

How Many Should I Hang?
This really depends on the look that you want to achieve.  A grid grouping is always a nice transition from one larger print, it provides the illusion of one grand art-piece but allows you to use different images.  One trick to keep the look consistent is to use the same frames and same colour matting.  If you want to go for a gallery look, try hanging a row of 5 framed prints on the wall or over your headboard.  My preference is to hang prints in odd numbers because the effect is more appealing to the eye; groups of 1, 3, 5, or 7 are always a nice touch (this is if you're not going for a grid grouping as these should always be in even numbers).  A good tip is to arrange the artwork on the floor or a table to see what works for you, this way you're not left banging a bunch of holes in your walls in an attempt to find an appealing look!


No One Says you Have to Hang it on the Wall
Not every piece of artwork needs to be hung on the wall, why not try leaning some up on a shelf or place them in your hallway on a credenza or like I've done in the little nook I have in my house near the front door and across from the stairs:

You could also hang some on the front of a bookcase or on an easel.  There are many variations out there so try something different and outside of the box, err I mean wall.


Some Tricks and Tips
If you're not so great at measuring and want to achieve a level line of prints on your wall try using this nifty tool, the Hang & Level.  This little tool is great for arranging artwork on the wall in one easy step, you place the artwork on one of the knobs, line it up on the wall (it has a handy level for that), remove the artwork and push the knob into the wall.  A small indentation is left and all you have to do is bang a nail, hang your artwork and Bob's your Uncle!  This is great for eyeballing the height of your art-pieces which saves you the hassle of having to measure every single one to get the proper dimensions, because as you're aware, not every frame is exactly the same.


Another great solution is to use 3M Command Hooks for hanging your artwork.  These are especially great if you're timid about banging holes in your walls or even if you're not permitted to.  They work great on concrete as well and believe me this is a time-saver as drilling a hole into concrete is messy.  Just be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions before you use them because there are weight limitations.  The best part about them is, they don't leave any marks and can be used again!


If you have a heavy art-piece and can't locate a wall-stud, the next best solution is to use a drywall anchor.  I like to use this type personally, because they come in many different weight ratios and are now available in white or almond:

You simply screw them into the drywall and they come with screws that you simply screw into the anchor, hang your art-piece and there you go.  Just make sure that your artwork hanger works with the screw before attempting to screw in the drywall anchor.


So those are some handy tips and tricks when attempting to hang artwork, now get out there, dust off those prints and start hanging them on your walls!

Colour Coordination in your Home Part 1 - The Neutral Backdrop

PART 1 - The Neutral Backdrop
The traditional school of thought on colour is that everything MUST be coordinated and completely match (or being matchy-matchy as I like to call it).  Some will find that this style is boring and doesn't lend itself to being very creative, and I agree.  While coordination is the key that pieces a room together whether it's by colour, texture or theme the entire room doesn't need to feel like one single form.  Colour can be introduced into a room in many different ways be it on the wall, in your furniture or in your accessories, it's all in how you tie it together.


I am of the school of having a neutral backdrop (i.e. walls) and punching the room with colour in furniture, art and accessories.  Some prefer the opposite of allowing the walls (and sometimes ceiling) to do the talking and the rest is just accent.  The reason for my love-affair with neutral backdrops is because it is (in my opinion) easier to change a pillowcase, vase or art piece than it is to have to re-paint the entire wall; because let's face it, people grow out of colour choices quickly, especially if you immerse yourself in them everyday.  Now the brave souls out there who enjoy the task of re-painting a room should keep reading because I promise to include some tips on colour coordination that can benefit you as well.


The Neutral Backdrop - it is my favourite so I thought I would start with this
Painting your walls in a neutral colour such as cream, off-white, light yellow/green/blue and yes even beige are good starters for your walls.  The subtle colour lends itself to blending in and not creating a focal point for the eye.  These colours are soothing and tend to have a warmer-feeling to them.  You could even take the paint all the way up the wall over the molding and onto the ceiling and this way the room will feel much taller, this is a good trick especially in rooms with low ceilings or in a bathroom.  


Let's use the living room as our example:
Now that you've painted the room in a neutral colour (trim paint and ceiling are a traditional white in our case), you can start to build in the major pieces for the room such as: a sofa, coffee table, bookcase, etc.  If you already have them and they work in your space great! If not, then this is where you could get creative.  Here are some creative ideas for the major pieces in your space:


SOFA
Why settle on a neutral coloured sofa when you could introduce some colour, texture or pattern to the forefront of your neutral backdrop.  Coloured sofas really do stand out against neutral walls, but be forewarned that a sofa purchase is a large investment and you want to pick something that you really do love and will withstand at least more than one year.  Here are some ideas:

Neutral sofas are great investments especially if you don't want the sofa to act as a focal point in the room.  They also tend to be wiser investments as they have much more staying power than a coloured sofa in which you could grow out of its hue and want a replacement.  Here are some ideas:

COFFEE TABLE

The coffee table is another way to inject colour into the room.  If you're handy and have a nice wooden coffee table that's seen better days why not spruce it up with a fresh coat of paint in a fun colour such as turquoise or tangerine.  If you'd rather not go through the trouble of having to re-finish an existing piece of furniture then consider purchasing a coffee table in either a fun colour, white or something more ornate.  Here are some ideas:

The neutral coffee table choices out there are in abundance and no one says that you have to stray from a traditional colour palate when selecting a coffee table.  Tables in a wood-finish, brown or black are always good choices, just be sure that the style of table fits in with the style of your room in both size and feel.


THE BOOKCASE
If you decide to introduce a bookcase into your living room space or if a built-in bookcase already exists, you have a number of options when it comes to colour.  You could paint the existing or purchase a white, black, brown or wood-tone bookcase and those would work nicely in your space.  But you could also easily introduce a bookcase in a rich shade of yellow, blue or red.  Here are some ideas:

ENTERTAINMENT UNIT
If your living room doubles as a family room you most likely will have some form of an entertainment unit.  If you do decide to introduce this furniture piece and depending on how large it is (i.e. the full wall) you can easily colour match the unit to either your coffee table or bookcase.  You don't want the room to look matchy-matchy but there should be some cohesion in the space otherwise it will start to look like you've been out shopping while tripping out on LSD.  If you have a white coffee table you could easily introduce a TV solution in white (if you have your TV mounted on the wall you could use this piece underneath).


Now no one says that you have to purchase a unit that is specifically made for televisions - keeping in mind that they tend to have holes drilled in for cords and the like - as you could easily turn that old sideboard into a TV unit.  For example:

Pieces specially designed for entertainment have come a long way over the years so don't go ruling them out right away. You could easily find and introduce a sleek looking unit that flows with your space, just be sure to keep in mind proportions when out shopping.  The last thing you want to do is come home with a wall-sized unit that screams "look at me!".




The introduction of a neutral wall colour and major living/family room pieces is Part 1 of my series on colour coordination. Be sure to stay turned for my second installment where I talk about accessorizing the space with artwork and decorative objects.


Courtesy of:
Leons
Structube
EQ3
IKEA

DIY Fireplace Makeover

My husband and I moved into our new home last November (2009).  The house is about 30 years old and the previous owners did a great job renovating the place to make it more current.  But we found that the wood-burning fireplace was a bit dated and decided to give it a quick and easy makeover (who doesn't love a makeover!).


Here is a before photo of the fireplace...this photo was taken on moving day hence the copious amount of "stuff", but you get the gist:

There were really two options for us and the first one was the most expensive being a complete overhaul of the entire surround.  Which meant tearing down the bricks, rebuilding the structure and tiling...all of that meant a ton of dust, blood, sweat and tears, so my second option sounded much more appealing.


Here is what we did:  

1. The top half of the fireplace was covered in MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard). This surround covers the brick from the mantle all the way up to the ceiling and of course around the sides meeting up with the walls on both sides.
2. Molding was added to the center of the MDF surround to create architectural detail. 
3. The mantle itself got a fresh coat of paint.  I decided to paint as oppose to stain as there were some inconsistencies with the wood grain and I'm not a huge fan of oak to begin with.
4. The bottom surround got a fresh coat of paint.  The brick was painted from the underside of the mantle all the way down to the wood floors.
5. The fireplace insert gets to stay flat black and yes, the brass trim was removed.  We have yet to decide if we want to paint it black and return it or leave it without.

Here is a photo of our work in progress:

As you can see above the MDF has been attached to the top half of the fireplace.  We used PL Premium to adhere the MDF to the brick.  As this is a wood-burning fireplace attaching anything to the brick which would require drilling is a fire hazard.  We were assured by the fellow at the local Home Depot that PL Premium would hold an "elephant to an airliner" - I kid you not, that is what he said!!

If you are not handy with a saw your local box hardware store will cut the MDF to the sizes you specify.  Just remember, measure twice and cut once.

We filled in the gaps (as nothing is truly square) with paintable caulking - this is the white you see in the photo.  We also used PollyFilla which requires sanding, this stuff is handy if you don't have a steady hand for the caulking.

The trim/molding which you can see on the floor, was cut to size and adhered to the upper surround with PL Premium.  Again no nailing as this is a wood-burning fireplace and we didn't want to run the risk of a fire...well one that wasn't contained to the fireplace itself!!

Here is the finished product:

What a difference!!!  We are so pleased with the new look of our fireplace and believe me, this transformation was very cost-effective with mega impact!

The paint we used on the lower-half of the surround was specially designed for brick and adobe exteriors which can withstand the heat of the desert sun.  We figured if it could withstand that it could easily withstand a fireplace.  Plus the fellow at the local hardware store assured us that this has been used previously on wood-burning and gas fireplaces without any issue, so we did feel more at ease knowing this.

The paint colours in the photo look very black and white, but I assure you this is only a camera trick.  The mantle piece is painted in Behr Premium Plus Ultra (this is the paint and primer in one) French Roast.  The surround was painted in Behr Premium Plus Ultra Apple Core.  We were able to have the special brick paint colour matched to Apple Core.

We LOVE, LOVE, LOVE our new fireplace and it really opens up the room!  So don't be afraid to take the plunge and tackle a less than appealing fireplace in a weekend.  That is really how long it took us to start and finish this project...mind you, the house cleaning took a hit that weekend, but it was worth it!

Happy DIY-ing!